The Shave

Most men grow facial hair. Most men shave. Most men don’t like to shave. This can be an issue. Whether because of work, preference of a significant other, or the lack of quality facial hair growth (the last two for me) we remove hair from our faces by dragging razors, in varying degrees of sharpness, across skin that probably gets enough abuse as is. The vast majority of men use a brand name cartridge style razor and a can of blue goo. I say, “No wonder you hate shaving.”

Shaving is relatively expensive no matter which route you choose; we’ll discuss different methods later on. For now let’s use the Fusion Pro Glide as a case study. At the local chain drug store an eight pack of cartridges will run you $32. How fast you go through cartridges is a matter of personal preference, but if you have the average man’s beard I suggest a new cartridge every week if shaving every day. This ensures a sharp cutting surface, which is vitally important for a comfortable shave. Therefore, one pack will last two months, and you end up spending $180, and change, on blades per year! Add preshave/postshave routines and you are way north of the $200 mark.

5+1 blades and a light are not necessary items on a razor

Brand name cartridges aren’t all bad. In my experience premium blades are extremely sharp and durable. They also have good moisturizing/lubricating strips that do a phenomenal job and are responsible for the closeness of the shave. However, a cartridge with over three blades is frivolous and can cause potential damage to your skin. With every stroke of a five bladed cartridge you are making five passes with a razor. That isn’t good for skin. The entire purpose of multi blade systems is to stretch the hair with one blade and cut with the following blade. This may lead to the hair being cut below the skin surface, which can result in ingrown hairs…ouch.

My preference for cartridge systems is to use blades from a source such as Dollar Shave Club. If you haven’t heard of them I would suggest you check them out. They ship cheaply sourced cartridges once a month for as little as three bucks a month. There are a variety of blade options so you can order what you feel most comfortable using, and it is easy to upgrade later on. These blades may not have the quality of name brands, but they get the job done at a fraction of the price.

If you’re looking to get away from cartridges there are a couple of options available to you. You could go with the old school, but very useful, safety razor. The biggest cost starting this system is to buy the razor. The blades for the razor can be purchased cheap. The main difference between cartridge style and safety style razors is the number of blades. Safety razors use only one blade. You will also need to be more careful as the entirety of the blade is exposed and can do damage if used improperly. These razors yield a very close shave but require some practice.

A double bladed safety razor such as this Merkur will provide an excellent shave at an affordable price.

The last option is the straight razor. Only consider this if you have a lot of patience and are willing to spend a good amount of time preparing for the shave and during the shave itself. This method will yield the closest and most comfortable shave when mastered. Expect the process of mastering a straight razor shave to take six months to a year. I won’t discuss straight razor types here as there are a lot of good resources available online that are much more knowledgeable than I.

Quality Solingen steel can be had for under $100, but beware that other expenses such as a strop and honing fees will add to this.

Let’s move to the next part of the equation: shaving cream, shaving soap, shaving gel. I consider creams and soaps to be the same product in different forms. Creams don’t necessarily require a shave brush, but I prefer one. Soaps will require a brush, and both soaps and creams can be whipped into a thick lather that will aid in carrying hair away from the face, and most importantly, lubricate your skin so the blade can glide over it. Creams and soaps are generally better for your skin because of the use of natural ingredients that nourish the skin. Oh, I don’t consider Barbasol to be a cream; I’d rather use a gel. Creams I have experience with are Baxter of California and Speick. Both provide good lather and have good lubricating properties provided you are using a soft water source. A puck of shaving soap or tube of cream can run anywhere from two bucks to close to fifty. Quality can be had in the $10-20 range, and the amount you get will last quite a long time.

That leaves the blue goo. If you have shaved in the last fifteen years you have probably shaved with shave gel. It’s cheap, it’s quick, and it’s easy, but I try my very best to avoid it. After working a summer for an industrial detergent manufacturer I know the chemicals used to make the kind of foam you get out of a shave gel. Let’s just say they are used in washing your car. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want that on my face.

I’ll take a couple minutes of prep over the convenience of the blue goo any day. Baxter makes some great products; I also use their after shave balm.

How will any of this information keep you from tearing your face off with a razor? Well, it may not, but I will tell you how I shave, and you can experiment yourself. I always, always, always shave after showering. The combination of heat and moisture from the shower will soften the hairs allowing them to be cut more smoothly, which reduces friction. Friction is bad. Before hopping in the shower I fill a small bowl with the hottest water I can get out of the tap and soak the brush. After showering I whip up a good lather and spend a good amount of time working it into my face. This softens the hair as well as lubricates. From here I begin the shave, making at least two passes, lathering as needed. The first is always with the grain and the next across (not against). If I want the closest shave possible I will make a third pass, against the grain. Be very careful with an against the grain pass as it has the highest possibility for producing razor burn. Pat dry, apply a good aftershave, and enjoy the smoothness…until tomorrow.

I’ve written a little bit about a lot of shaving topics.  I tried to keep it pretty general for the sake of brevity.  As with any of the blog posts if you have any questions, or directions to links, post your questions in the comments.  Thanks!